Lincoln Park it’s not

Come along for a quick tour of what to expect in the artsy, hip and laid-back Ukranian Village neighborhood

By Jeremy Schnitker

If you’re someone who likes unique ethnic food, digs hip, relaxed dive bars with great jukeboxes and super cheap drinks, usually listens to indie rock instead of the radio and takes an overall more laid-back approach to life, there’s really no other place in Chicago to live than the Wicker Park/Ukrainian Village neighborhood.

Outside of New York and Los Angeles, there might not be a better place in the country to live if you enjoy the aforementioned activities. Just less than two months ago, my roommate and I moved down to the East Village from the dull, homogenous section of Lincoln Park where we’d rested our heads for the past year, and it’s been a fairly life-changing situation for both of us. We’re blocks from our favorite bars, surrounded by some of the most interesting restaurants in town and have managed to make nice with our neighbors, all of whom appear to be under the age of 35.

Having lived and hung out in Lincoln Park and Lakeview my during my initial time in Chicago, I was baffled by the lack of knowledge a lot of people had about this part of the city. Many people I met had never been anywhere south of North Avenue or west of Ashland. A lot of that surely has to do with the snobbish, artsy attitude the neighborhood is perceived as having. While it may appear that attitude exists in Wicker Park — where things are a little trendier — the Ukranian Village is much more relaxed. I’ve yet to get the hipper-than-thou attitude (well, maybe a few times at the Rainbo Club, but that’s about it). Besides, if you go to certain parts of Lincoln Park and Lakeview and you’re not screaming at the TV during the game or wearing a backward ballcap, you’re likely more uncomfortable than you would be at a bar playing obscure music and sitting next to an artist who looks like he hasn’t seen a shower in weeks. But maybe that’s just me.

Also, unlike most other gentrified or nearly gentrified areas of the North Side, there’s still a hint of the neighborhood’s ethnic background in the UK Village. You frequently pass groups of construction workers speaking Polish, and there are two authentic polish delis a couple blocks away (Kasia’s at 2101 W. Chicago — which is known to have some of the best pierogies in the city — and Andy’s Deli at 1721 W. Division).

Closer toward Western Avenue, you’ll pass packs of Ukrainians speaking the native tongue while standing in their front yards keeping an eye on the old neighborhood. You don’t get that in River North or Old Town.

The area has retained a strong sense of its original architecture, which consists mostly of old cottages and three-flats, though you’ll notice the area, especially east of Damen, is quickly giving way to new condo developments. It surely looks much different than it did 10 years ago, and will look even more different 10 years from now. But I will say the new developments down here are some of the best designs I’ve seen.

The quality of the nightlife in this neck of the woods is what really stands out. You find the very divey corner bars that one typically associates with Chicago. Joints like Happy Village at Wolcott and Thomas (1059 N. Wolcott), which has quite possibly one of the most distinctive beer gardens in the city. Sitting at it feels like you’re at an outdoor wedding reception. There’s a large white tent, picnic tables and a tiny fountain and pond near the end of the bar. On Augusta is Club Foot (1824 W. Augusta), where you can listen to some of the best punk rock DJs around and look at some of the most unusual bric-a-brac of any bar in the city. Down on Chicago and Damen, you’ve got a bar that mashes indie rock panache with a more upscale atmosphere at High Dive (1938 W. Chicago). You’ll likely run into the members of your favorite local indie rock band at scenester stalwarts Rainbo Club (1150 N. Damen) and Gold Star (1755 W. Division). And don’t forget the easy-to-miss J&M Tap (frequently referred to as the Secret Squirrel by some friends of mine) at 959 N. Leavitt. This place is as blue collar and inexpensive as the bars I used to go to back when I lived in Iowa, and it’s got a pretty good jukebox.

You’re also just a few blocks south of some of the most prominent 4 a.m. bars in the city: Nick’s Beer Garden, Tavern and Estelle’s.

There is some interesting dining down here as well. You’ve got everything from high-end sushi places to run down Mexican shacks, the most peculiar of which is the “La Pasadita Triangle.” What is surely the most baffling culinary geographical oddity in the city, La Pasadita has three restaurants within 50 feet of one another at the corner of Division and Ashland. For less than $10, you can stuff yourself at either one, which the Chicago Tribune said in 2006 has the second-best tacos in the city.

Smoke Daddy at 1804 W. Division is regarded as one of the best BBQ places in town. Two of the dining highlights of the neighborhood are bakeries. At Alliance Bakery & Café (1736 W. Division), you can sit at one of the tiny tables outside like you’re Tony Soprano and the gang sitting outside Satriale’s watching the passers-by. Down on Chicago and Damen, you’ve got the Bleeding Heart Bakery (2018 W. Chicago), which serves the most punk rock pastries in Chicago.

The shopping in this area is perhaps its weakest link (at least if you’re a simple jeans and a t-shirt kinda guy or gal). Division is lined with pricey boutiques, such as Penelope’s, and unless you’re trying to recreate the Jon Voight circa “Midnight Cowboy” look, Chicago Avenue doesn’t have much to offer, either. You’re best to head north to Wicker Park for cheap threads.

And of course, my favorite little nugget of this neighborhood, the one that makes me think “Damn, I live in a cool part of town,” is the Shit Fountain on the corner of Wolcott and Augusta. You’ve gotta love a neighborhood so brazen as to have a monument for turds.

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