Getting your caffeine fix

A coffee shop for everyone in Lincoln Square

By Karin Kane

Once upon a time, in a land far, far away, people had many different choices of coffee shops, and each of them had their own unique charm. The artsy and more masochistic among us could patronize a poetry reading and imbibe an espresso at the same time, while those of us desperately craving early morning caffeine, and less fussed about flavor, had our local Dunkin’ Donuts extra large conveniently prepared in a Styrofoam cup.

Now, of course, that has all changed, and we mindless drones line up vapidly at our nearest Starbucks, complacently believing that the rest of the world really is interested in oversized ceramic mugs, peppermint brownie bars, and triple grande non-fat extra foam half-pump vanilla lattés. The relatively few who live in small towns without a Starbucks, and who haven’t yet internalized this daily ritual, do not pretend to be independent thinkers on this subject. Rather, they rush to the first Starbucks they see once they get off the Metra, in for a big day of shopping in the city, and amuse the rest of us with their unusual pronunciations and colorful Christmas sweaters.

Fortunately, despite Starbucks’ push to turn us all into mindless, caffeine-starved drones, unable to think past our next Venti Misto, those of us still able to make a choice (and lucky enough to live near Lincoln Square) now have several options to help us exert our independence.

As you stroll along Lincoln Avenue, from Wilson up to Lawrence and through the heart of the Square, you will now find three separate coffee shops providing warmth and energy to the groggy and cold (four counting Descartes Cafe, which I have heard good things about but have not had time to enjoy yet). The first, of course, is Starbucks, which sits on the corner of Wilson and Lincoln and, to its credit, has done a relatively decent job of blending into the neighborhood décor. Just up the block is The Grind, which highlights the Square’s rebellious days, which are disappearing along with the neighboring record stores. A few blocks further north is Café Neo, a new and far trendier shop.

The strengths of each place vary alongside the strengths of their brews. Finally, blissfully, we caffeine lovers have a choice. Since we know you’ll want to get your fix as quickly as possible, though, we reviewed each of the three here, to provide you with the ideal guide for your perfect cup and perfect environment.

Starbucks
This Starbucks is better than most, for several reasons. It’s very well-lit, thanks to its many windows and corner location, which also makes it great for people-watching. You’ve already tasted their coffee, so I won’t go into much detail there. The staff is pleasant and is happy to create drinks not on their usual menu. The crowd here tends to be more kid-oriented, so if you’re looking for a quiet place to study, this isn’t the place for you. Since Starbucks doesn’t offer free Wi-Fi, you’re better off someplace else if you have work to do, unless you’re already a T-Mobile customer. On the other hand, they do have nice bathrooms, and the staff doesn’t seem to mind at all if you visit those without visiting the coffee bar.

The Grind
This is where all of the anti-Starbucks, anti-establishment crowd hangs out. The place itself is small and narrow and, unless you get there early, it will be hard to find a table. Generally, though, the other patrons are friendly and happy to share, though they may be become less friendly if you pull out your corporate-issued laptop and settle in to work or take advantage of the free Wi-Fi. The coffee is generally good, and if the staff is feeling friendly, your drink may come with some foam-art. If you don’t mind the college-grunge feel, take some time to order some food: It’s generally good and, though service can be slow, it’s usually worth the wait. Prices are about on a par with Starbucks. Best of all, if you bring some friends, you’ll get credit for visiting what is clearly a local and independent chain.

Café Neo
If you were to imagine a coffee shop designed to be precisely the opposite of the cozy, grunge-oriented Grind, you would be imagining Café Neo. This newer place under the El line is spare and open, with lots of seating and, again, free Wi-Fi. It also serves Illy coffee, long a personal favorite. The scene here, though, seems more appropriate to Wicker Park than Lincoln Square. Trim people flock with their sleek laptops, black cashmere turtlenecks and designer glasses to sip espresso. Big, foamy drinks are available, but they don’t seem to be popular, and since no one in the place looks like they eat, we elected not to try the food. The staff didn’t offer us any anyway; they seemed slightly offended that we had crashed their party in our jeans and puffy coats. The coffee was outstanding, though, and the quiet atmosphere was ideal for studious workers.

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